Cao Lau

What is Cao Lau

The name of the dish is written as cao lầu.

The word cao (cao) means "high," and lầu (lầu) means "floor" or "upper storey." A popular explanation is that the dish was formerly served on the upper floors of Hoi An’s trading houses, where merchants could dine while keeping an eye on their goods below.

However, the exact origin of the name remains unconfirmed. Today, Cao Lau is primarily associated with the town of Hội An and its ancient trading quarter.

A classic portion includes:

specialized Cao Lau noodles;
pork;
fresh herbs;
bean sprouts;
crunchy dough croutons;
a small amount of meat sauce;
occasionally pickled vegetables and chili.

How Cao Lau Differs from Soup

Cao Lau is served in a deep bowl, which is why tourists sometimes mistake it for a soup. However, it contains significantly less liquid than Phở or Bún bò Huế.

The sauce sits at the bottom and should only partially coat the noodles. Before eating, the ingredients are mixed thoroughly so the noodles absorb the meat juices and spice aromas.

In terms of presentation, Cao Lau is closer to dry noodles with gravy than to a soup.

What Noodles Are Used

The noodles for the dish are called sợi cao lầu — "Cao Lau threads."

They differ from regular rice noodles by being:

thicker;
denser;
slightly springy;
yellowish or beige in color;
resistant to becoming overly soft after mixing with the sauce.

Traditionally, the noodles are made from rice. The grains are soaked, ground into flour, kneaded into dough, steamed multiple times, and then cut into thick strips.

As a result, the noodles acquire a characteristic chewy texture that is difficult to replicate using regular rice flour.

Water and Lye Ash in the Traditional Recipe

Many culinary legends are associated with Cao Lau.

According to one of the most famous stories, the dough was kneaded using water from the ancient Ba Lễ well (giếng Bá Lễ) in Hoi An.

It is also believed that the rice was soaked in alkaline water derived from the ashes of local plants. Some accounts mention the ash of trees from the Cham Islands (Cù Lao Chàm).

Such processing could have affected the color and elasticity of the noodles. However, modern producers use their own techniques, and stories about a single correct water source are mostly regarded as part of Hoi An's culinary folklore.

How the Noodles Are Made

The traditional process is quite complex and time-consuming.

The main steps are:

rinsing the rice thoroughly;
soaking it in water;
grinding it into flour or a liquid batter;
kneading a dense dough;
steaming the dough multiple times;
rolling it out;
cutting it into thick strips;
steaming them again;
drying them slightly before use.

Thanks to the repeated steaming process, the noodles remain dense and do not fall apart in the bowl.

At home, they are almost always replaced with ready-made noodles, as the traditional technique requires specialized equipment and expertise.

What Pork Is Used

The meat component of the dish is typically made from pork thịt heo.

Most commonly used cuts are:

pork belly ba chỉ;
shoulder;
pork neck;
meat with a moderate amount of fat.

The pork is marinated in fish or soy sauce, sugar, garlic, and spices, then braised or pan-fried until tender.

The finished meat is sliced thinly and placed on top of the noodles.

Char Siu Pork

On the menu, you may encounter the terms thịt xíu or xá xíu.

This is pork prepared in a sweet and savory marinade with prominent spice aromas. Visually, it resembles Chinese Char Siu pork.

The meat has a dark, caramelized exterior and a tender interior. The juices left over from cooking are used to season the noodles.

This Chinese culinary influence is frequently linked to the history of Cao Lau as a dish from an old international trading port.

The Sauce for Cao Lau

The sauce is simply called nước sốt — gravy or sauce.

It is prepared using the liquid left over from braising the pork. Ingredients may include:

meat juices;
fish sauce nước mắm;
soy sauce nước tương;
sugar;
garlic;
pepper;
shallots;
spices;
a small amount of broth.

The sauce should be concentrated, slightly sweet, and savory.

Only a few spoonfuls are poured into the bowl. If there is too much liquid, the noodles lose their density, and the dish begins to resemble an ordinary soup.

Fresh Herbs

Herb accompaniments, known as rau sống, are served with Cao Lau.

Herbs from the village of Trà Quế, located near Hoi An, are particularly prized in the town. This area is renowned for cultivating aromatic herbs and vegetables.

A portion may include:

leaf lettuce xà lách;
mint;
coriander;
basil;
perilla tía tô;
Vietnamese balm kinh giới;
green onions;
bean sprouts giá đỗ.

The herbs add freshness to the dish and balance the rich pork.

Bean Sprouts

Bean sprouts are called giá đỗ.

They can be used raw or lightly blanched. The sprouts retain their crunch and add textural variety to the dish.

In some eateries, they are placed at the bottom of the bowl, with hot noodles and meat layered on top. This softens the sprouts slightly while keeping them crisp.

Crunchy Dough Croutons

One of the signature components of Cao Lau is crunchy fried or baked dough croutons.

They may be referred to as:

tép cao lầu chiên;
bánh đa;
bánh phở khô chiên;
crispy Cao Lau noodles.

Trimmings from the same dough used for the noodles are often fried until golden brown and placed on top.

These pieces add crunch and contrast with the tender pork and chewy noodles.

Varieties of Cao Lau

The dish has no single strict classification. Variations differ by meat type, presentation style, and additional ingredients.

Classic Cao Lau

Cao lầu thịt heo is the classic version with pork.

A portion includes:

Cao Lau noodles;
braised or roasted pork;
herbs;
bean sprouts;
crunchy dough pieces;
meat sauce.

On menus, this dish is usually listed simply as cao lầu.

Cao Lau Xa Xiu

Cao lầu xá xíu is prepared with Char Siu-style pork.

The meat features a sweetish marinade, a dark crust, and a more pronounced spice aroma.

In some establishments, this is the standard way of preparing pork for Cao Lau rather than a distinct variety, while other menus list it specifically.

Chicken Cao Lau

Cao lầu gà is a modern variation featuring chicken.

The word gà means "chicken."

The chicken meat is boiled, roasted, or pan-fried, then cut into pieces. The sauce is usually lighter than in the pork version.

This variant is not considered traditional, but it can be found in tourist cafes and modern restaurants.

Beef Cao Lau

Cao lầu bò is prepared with beef.

The word bò means "beef."

The meat is quickly stir-fried or braised with spices. The flavor turns out richer and less sweet than traditional pork.

This is also a modern adaptation.

Shrimp Cao Lau

Cao lầu tôm is a version with shrimp.

The word tôm means "shrimp."

The shrimp are sautéed with garlic and spices, then served with noodles and herbs. Sometimes they are combined with pork.

This option is found in seafood-oriented restaurants.

Seafood Cao Lau

Cao lầu hải sản is prepared with seafood.

The words hải sản mean "seafood."

The composition may include:

shrimp;
squid;
fish;
clams;
octopus.

This version is not traditional, but it is available in coastal restaurants in Hoi An and Da Nang.

Vegetarian Cao Lau

Cao lầu chay is the vegetarian version.

The word chay means "vegetarian" or "vegan."

The pork is replaced with:

tofu;
mushrooms;
seitan;
sautéed vegetables;
plant-based cutlets.

The sauce is prepared using soy sauce, mushroom broth, and spices.

Strict vegans should check the ingredients of the noodles and sauce, as some establishments may use fish sauce or meat broth.

Dry Cao Lau

You may occasionally encounter the name cao lầu khô.

The word khô means "dry."

This emphasizes that the dish is served with virtually no liquid, accompanied only by a small amount of thick sauce. However, classic Cao Lau is already a relatively dry dish, so this term is not used everywhere.

Cao Lau Dac Biet

Cao lầu đặc biệt is a special or upgraded portion.

The word đặc biệt means "special."

Such a bowl may include:

extra pork;
multiple types of meat;
an egg;
extra crunchy pieces;
more herbs;
seafood.

The contents depend on the specific establishment.

Egg Cao Lau

Cao lầu trứng is a version with egg.

The word trứng means "egg."

The bowl may contain:

a boiled egg;
a marinated egg;
a fried egg;
quail eggs.

This is a modern addition rather than a mandatory part of the classic presentation.

How to Eat Cao Lau Correctly

Before eating, the dish needs to be thoroughly mixed.

The sauce sits at the bottom of the bowl, so it is important to lift the noodles and distribute the sauce evenly among all the ingredients.

A convenient order of steps:

add a little chili or lime to taste;
toss the noodles with the sauce;
combine the meat, herbs, and sprouts;
leave some of the crunchy pieces on top;
eat the noodles and meat with chopsticks.

Do not wait too long after it is served. If the noodles sit in the sauce for too long, they gradually soften, and the crunchy pieces lose their texture.

It is best to taste the dish first without additional condiments, as the sauce may already be sufficiently salty and sweet.

What Condiments Are Served

The table may feature:

fresh chili ớt;
chili sauce tương ớt;
fish sauce nước mắm;
soy sauce nước tương;
lime;
pickled garlic;
black pepper.

Hoi An chili sauce can be quite spicy and slightly sweet, so it is best added in small portions.

How Cao Lau Differs from Mi Quang

Cao Lau is often compared to another central Vietnamese dish — mì Quảng.

Both dishes are served with noodles, herbs, a small amount of liquid, and crunchy toppings. However, there are important differences between them.

Cao Lau:

is primarily associated with Hoi An;
is made from specialized dense rice noodles;
is usually served with pork;
contains very little thick sauce;
features characteristic crunchy dough pieces.

Mi Quang:

is associated with Quang Nam province;
is made from wide noodles;
may include chicken, shrimp, pork, or fish;
contains more broth;
is often served with peanuts and rice crackers.

The main difference lies in the noodle texture and sauce composition.

How Cao Lau Differs from Bun Thit Nuong

Bún thịt nướng is rice vermicelli with grilled pork.

This dish uses thin white vermicelli, whereas Cao Lau noodles are thicker and denser.

Additionally:

in Bún thịt nướng, the meat is typically grilled;
in Cao Lau, the pork is usually braised or roasted;
Bún thịt nướng is dressed with fish sauce;
Cao Lau is served with a concentrated meat gravy;
Cao Lau always includes crunchy dough pieces.

How to Order Cao Lau

You may encounter the following names on menus:

cao lầu — classic Cao Lau;
cao lầu thịt heo — Cao Lau with pork;
cao lầu xá xíu — Cao Lau with sweet-spiced marinated pork;
cao lầu gà — chicken Cao Lau;
cao lầu bò — beef Cao Lau;
cao lầu tôm — shrimp Cao Lau;
cao lầu hải sản — seafood Cao Lau;
cao lầu chay — vegetarian Cao Lau;
cao lầu đặc biệt — special portion;
thêm thịt — add meat;
thêm rau — add herbs;
thêm mì — add noodles;
không cay — not spicy;
ít cay — mildly spicy;
không thịt — without meat.

The phrase một tô cao lầu means "one bowl of Cao Lau."

Tones are important in Vietnamese, so it is often easier to point to the name on a menu or phone screen.

When Is the Best Time to Eat Cao Lau

Cao Lau can be eaten for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

In Hoi An, it is served in street cafes, markets, family-run eateries, and restaurants throughout the Old Town.

During the day, it makes for a convenient, light yet satisfying lunch. In the evening, Cao Lau is a great choice after a walk through the historic center.

Because the noodles and crunchy toppings quickly lose their texture, it is best to choose places where the dish is prepared in small batches and frequently ordered by locals.

Where Is the Best Place to Try Cao Lau

The main place to experience the dish remains Hội An.

Cao Lau can be found:

at the Central Market;
in old family-run cafes;
at establishments in the Old Town;
in small eateries outside the tourist center;
in restaurants featuring Quang Nam provincial cuisine.

When choosing a spot, pay attention to a few details:

the noodles look dense and not clumped together;
there is little liquid in the bowl;
the pork is sliced right before serving;
the herbs are fresh;
the bean sprouts are crunchy;
the fried dough pieces are not soggy;
the dish is prepared in small batches.

If the bowl contains a lot of broth and the noodles resemble ordinary vermicelli, it may be a simplified version.

What Tourists Should Keep in Mind

Classic Cao Lau typically contains pork, fish or soy sauce, and plenty of fresh herbs.

Individuals with soy allergies should check the ingredients of the marinade and sauce.

The vegetarian version may contain fish sauce unless the establishment specializes in a fully plant-based menu.

The dish itself is usually not very spicy; chili and hot sauce are generally served separately.

Fresh herbs and bean sprouts may not undergo thermal processing, so it is wise to choose establishments with a high customer turnover and clean presentation.

Some modern versions contain shrimp, squid, or other seafood, so ingredient details should be verified if allergies are a concern.

Why You Should Try Cao Lau

Cao Lau is a dish inseparable from the atmosphere of Hoi An.

Its dense noodles, sweetish pork, fresh herbs, and crunchy dough pieces reflect the blending of culinary traditions from an old trading port.

A single bowl combines the tenderness of the meat, the springiness of the noodles, the freshness of the herbs, and the richness of the dark sauce. The dish is hearty without feeling overly heavy.

For a first experience, it is best to choose the classic Cao Lau with pork (cao lầu thịt heo). Mix it thoroughly before eating, but avoid adding too much sauce or chili to preserve the characteristic flavor of the noodles.